Ché gets around-here in Paris

This young woman was at a protest in Paris shortly after the bombing of Iraq started 5 years ago. French students require very little in the way of a cause to have a demonstration. They are amazingly orderly, the gendarmes are out to maintain calm and the crowd is able to make its point. They were closing a significant portion of the St. Germain de Pres every afternoon during the week in March that I was there. I doubt that would happen these days in the US-close down a major street for an anti-war protest. I have been struck by how often I encounter images of Ché Guevara in other parts of the world than Cuba. He has become a sort of international symbol of protest and revolution. Man people regard him as as butcher, others as as brilliant strategist, and some as a confused young man enamored of his impossible idealism. Whatever, and he may have been all three of these plus much more, no one can deny but what he was an interesting person.

Feria des Artesanas

Early in the morning one can hear the grinding sound of steel or wooden wheels rolling on the cobblestones. This is the artisans and the craftspeople rolling out their wares to get them to the Feria des Artesanas for the opening of that spectacle. It is held 4-5 days a week, the number of days was decreased as it became a more successful economic enterprise. Here one can purchase surprisingly good local arts and crafts at ridiculously low prices. As with all things involving Cubans and tourists, one can also get totally ripped off. The fair is interesting, colorful, and full of energy. Even if you don't find a deal it is fun. I spoke to one young man who was making small paintings and then selling them for $5 a piece. I asked him if that wasn't a very low price. He spoke perfect English, told me that he was an architect. He was required to work some number of years in return for his education, but then he quite architecture to take up painting. He typically sold 3-4 paintings a day. He was affluent from his art, considering his salary as an architect had been $15/month. This is the failure of the revolution and the system--the totally unrealistic economic situation imposed on the people. I have another friend who sells her photos for $200 a piece. One sale and she is  more than six months ahead when compared to her old teachers' salary. These things must change. The people can't be kept in the dark forever. Everybody likes to get some new shoes once in awhile. 

Folkloric Dancers

One of my friends, Maria, is a dancer and a dance instructor. She teaches children and teenagers folk dancing. Most of the dance is African in origin and pertains to her faith, Santeria. She had organized a recital in a house that was being used as a community center in one of the many poor suburbs of Havana. My students and I   were invited and we hired a van and went there late one afternoon. It started inside the house, on the second floor, but the crowd grew too large for the room and the dance was moved out into the street. Maria's son Ellington and her jazz loving husband Roberto provided the music by playing a set of bongo drums and thumping on a wooden box-the latter was a great instrument one sat on it and then just beat the side with both hands. The children were enthusiastic and some of them were quite talented. I thought about some of the times I had been to dance recitals with my children in the US. I realized that even under the thumb of an oppressive government people will find a way to not only have fun, but to help their children enjoy a bit of life. 

Musicians at Plaza Armas

One morning I walked up to Plaza Armas. There was some form of ceremony where it seemed police cadets were being recognized. There was a band playing martial music and the cadets were spiffy in their uniforms. I took a few photos and then wandered about the plaza. At the far end of the Plaza, away from the ceremony, sat these two musicians.  I struck up a conversation with them and asked if I might take their photograph. They said sure. Everyone was in a good mood, the weather was nice, it was a fine morning, and there were a moderate number of people walking and talking. I took a couple of shots, this is one of them. Then from nowhere that I could see came a small police car. Out leapt two uniformed officers who immediately approached the musicians and accused them of disturbing the ceremony. They were told to stand and handcuffs were produced, I protested and told the cops that I was the culprit. Since I was a gringo tourist, I was not likely to get arrested. The guitar player told me it was OK and to be quiet. The two musicians were then herded into the back seat of the police car and driven away. I don't think I have ever felt as bad and disgusted with myself as I did then. I felt awful. I had innocently caused these men to play their instruments, and the soft music that could not have possibly been heard up near the ceremony was enough to get them arrested. I was later told that they would be let go, but would be "written up." An example of the nearness of the law in all of its unreasonable and very intimidating power of the man on the street in Cuba. I have seen young men who were advertising their mother's kitchen as a place to eat arrested when they approached tourists. I barely escaped arrest for riding in a bici-taxi once. unbeknownst to me, the bicis had been relegated to being cheap transport for Cuban citizens and were not for the tourists. I spent an hour or more being harangued and having my "papers checked." The poor driver was trembling. I had no idea what a terrible position I had put him in--he could give me a ride or be rude to a tourist-he truly had a no win situation. All of this just hassle and intimidate. Enhance the power of the cops and the fear of the common man.

There are several photographers who operate in front of the Capitolio. They take your picture and then process it inside the big box of their camera. This is a traditional business that dates back to way before the Revolution. As such it is a tourist dependent business. Tourism is the island's major source of income these days. Most of the tourists come from Europe or S. America. The tourism was described for me once as "ideal for the budget-minded tourist." One of the unfortunate aspects of the local economy no doubt related to its paternalistic basis is very poor service. In some restaurants the wait staff will simply stand about, chatting and ignoring their customers. In  one totally tourist directed Italian restaurant I ordered fettucini alfredo. Forty five minute later I was told, "The fettucini, it is over. Now, we have spaghetti alfredo." The photographers provide much better service. 

Bahia de Cochinas

This is the famous Bay of Pigs. It was the site of the ill fated invasion of Cuba in April, 1961. There is controversy about the exact politics of both how and why, but either way it was a mess. Ca. 1100 of the "troops" in the invading force were captured and subsequently ransomed free to the cost of $53 million in material and cash. Today the bahia is quite beautiful and peaceful. I found an interesting discussion of the incident on a talk page from Wikipedia. This event, like so much in Cuba's recent history, provokes much discussion and many different opinions. One of the most insightful comments in the discussion I read is that "it may be another fifty years before the history of the incident is truly understood." So much of Cuba's history of the past 100 years is misunderstood, controversial, and conflicted. People are so caught up in the travails of the Castro government that they have forgotten the awful treatment of the Cuban people under Machado and Batista. Unfortunately there is a long trail of abuse, exploitation, and murder over the past century.

Voting

This is what voting in Havana was like the last time I visited there. Perhaps with the transition in government that has occurred over the past 6 months, real voting will start. In the past the results were always nearly unanimous and certainly maintained the status quo. Now, with a change, even a small shift, there is the chance of real reform. Since it is abundantly clear that the "embargo" has not been successful, perhaps a change in the US official posture might hasten the advent of real freedom. If our goal was freedom for the Cuban people rather than satisfying the understandable anger of a powerful political group, the embargo would be long gone. Encouraging reform by giving tangible support is likely to be more successful than continuing the harshness of a failed policy. Our leaders have persisted in this failed policy for 45 or so years. There is a window of opportunity at present, the US should seize it. There was perhaps a window of opportunity just after the revolution in 1959-1961. It was certainly lost in the fears and anxieties of the Communist threat of the Cold War years. Let's not pass up another chance to help a neighbor.

Gone fishing

People fish in the Bahia all the time. From sun up until late at night they can be seen casting their lines. They do indeed catch fish, sometimes some rather large ones. It is a pretty sight in the early morning when young men and old alike are trying their luck. I for one would probably not fish there nor would I eat anything that came out of the water of the Bahia de Habana. It is considered one of the ten dirtiest harbors in the world. This is another obvious marker of the inability or unwillingness of the government to enforce any regulations regarding what is dumped into the water. It is also an example of how the infrastructure of the city has deteriorated. It will take years and billions of dollars to make the city right. All those who plan to go back to Cuba and reclaim their property perhaps should give this some serious thought. If our government steps into help them, then I hope they are prepared to take similar steps to help those Native Americans who were similarly dispossessed of their land and property.

I met this woman in Bauta, a small village about 40 km from Havana. She was asking us for a ride back to Havana. Since space was limited, we had to turn her down. While we were talking she said that she worked in Havana. I asked her what her job was, and she answered, "I am an asker." I did not understand so I asked Roberto to explain it to me. "She stands in the Plaza at the Cathedral and asks people for things," he said. "Oh, you mean she is a beggar?" I answered. "Well, yes, I suppose you could say that," was the answer. I met several other interesting people in Bauta including a local photographer. I thought about it for awhile and realized that there are not near so many beggars on the streets as one encounters in other Latin American Countries. One is constantly hounded in Mexico. In fact, I think they are fewer in Havana than in Washington, DC.

I Love a Parade!

Parades are a big deal in Havana. It is amazing how the word gets out. Without much fanfare or advertising all of a sudden everyone knows that a parade is happening. And a happening it is. Businesses all close, school is cancelled, and the stores are closed. The parade route invariably follows the broad drive along the Malecon and ends up at the large plaza in front of the tall building that houses the US special Interests Section. There many very loud speeches are given, music blares, and the crowd cheers. All of the parade marchers which may number half a million people or more wave their little paper flags and most have smiles. Parades can bring out happiness almost anywhere. There are no military vehicles or military troops in the parades, it is a parade of the people. Usually timed to make a statement in response to some political development somewhere in the world that pertains to Cuba and to demonstrate that the people support the Cuban government. Even in Cuba people can have fun (or enjoy a day off to lay low and work around the house!)

This is Pepe. He sits outside the Fototeca keeping the door. The Fototeca is a relatively small place with two galleries where both visiting photographic exhibitions and local photographers' work are exhibited. Located on Plaza Vieja in Habana Vieja, it is part of a collection of galleries on the Plaza. Around the corner is the Casa Marina, a good place to go have a beer and talk. I have had good experiences at the Fototeca having met both Korda and Roberto Salas at various exhibitions. Although small there is a thriving community of photographic artists in Havana. They have struggled to obtain materials with which to do their work. I am hopeful that the relaxation on the ownership and use of electronic devices by Raul's government will allow them to move forward into the digital realm, an area in which they have been very limited. 

A note from Pac

It has been a long time since I posted on this blog. I am glad to be back doing something worthwhile like this; well, it is worthwhile for me. Last year was a very difficult year for me. I have encountered some things I would not wish on anyone, but I am now back and ready to resume life with full vigor. I don't have any new Cuba pictures. I haven't been there since 2005 so I will rely on my older ones for this effort. Our university lost its permit for educational travel to Cuba as did most US universities. I participated in an ECDET meeting in Washington, DC in 2006. It was held in conjunction with Cuba Day which was a big success; nothing was changed, but it did attract attention from many lawmakers. I don't think the travel situation will change until after the election. All the candidates will be in favor of the embargo in an effort to capture the Cuban-American vote. I am cautiously optimistic that in the next administration good sense will prevail and we will do business with Cuba. Certainly the current activities by the Chinese makes the embargo an even more ridiculous thing. It is as Col. Wilkerson once said,"The dumbest foreign policy the US has ever had." But then, one thing that politicians are virtually immune to is accusations of hypocrisy. Maybe if the Cubans would start making tennis shoes or jeans they would be more acceptable.

Ciudad Libertad

This is a picture of the abandoned area in Liberty City which is situated in Miramar. This was an army base under the Batista regime, the headquarters of the army in fact. It was from here that Batista fled once he realized that his rule was over. It was then converted to a school. Part of the old base is now an art school, another part, the old officers' club is the actual school. It has nice rooms, a pool, and is well painted. It is the school that was often shown on TV during the "Elian Gonzalez crisis." There is a secondary school in Liberty City that is attended by students from throughout latin America. Part of the city is abandoned, part is inhabited  by the students. Other than the presence of the young people it is hard to tell much difference between the areas. It will take years to repair the infrastructure in Havana, a very costly undertaking indeed. 

This old fighter plane sits outside the museum at Playa Giron or as many know it "the Bay of Pigs." This battle is viewed with great pride by many cubans and certainly by Castro himself. It was a military, foreign policy, and economic disaster for the United States. There are stories and relics of each of those martyrs who gave their lives at the  battle. It is creepy to see the bloody shirt of a teenager, but unfortunately that is the nature of war. Adjacent to this plane there sits the ruins and twisted remains of an American fighter plane shot down in the battle. It was shortly after this ill fated attempt to overthrow Castro and his regime that he decided to align Cuba with the Soviet Union. It is of interest that while there were many Communists involved in the revolution, Castro was not one of them and was resistant to many of their ideas. As the US condemns Castro for his brutality nothing is said about the brutality and oppressive nature of Batista and Machado who were cruel dictators acting as representatives of the US political and moneyed interests. It is of interest who gets to be labeled cruel, evil, and war criminal in these fracases.

Morning in Trinidad

It is early morning in Trinidad. People are just getting out and about. This town, one of the oldest in the new world, is the place where Christopher Columbus made his second landing in the Caribbean. It is quite pretty and the people are friendly. It is a bit touristy as many buses stop here. Made even more so by its proximity to the coast and two large resort hotels. These handmade baskets are for sale. Hopefully, someone will want one. A little capitalism at work here?

Morning coffee

These fellows are each getting a small cup of coffee from this private vendor. Many women will set up a small home version of Starbucks and sell coffee, juice, and cookies from their door or window to passers by on the street. This is welcomed by those in the neighborhood who may gather around the window to have their refreshments and chat. Unfortunately not so many Cubans are on their way to work when they stop by. It is a demoralizing thing to awaken in the morning and have no place to be that day. Hopefully that situation is changing slightly under the leadership of Raul.

Caneys y Rafael

I met these two men on the street in Santiago. They were extremely happy, friendly people as were almost all the citizens of that beautiful city. They were retired from having worked as clowns. They still did occasional birthday parties and things like that, but no longer worked at their jobs on a regular basis. Many people in Cuba are in that fix. It will be very difficult to make an abrupt transition from a society where the government provides at least a minimum subsistence to one where everyone must earn their keep. While many Cubans are anxious to work for themselves (and many already do that), others are very dependent on the paternalism of the government. 

This was made in the Bosque de Habana. A wonderful park adjacent to Vedado. In the vines and foliage of the Bosque it is cool and refreshing. The Almendares River runs through the Bosque. Unfortunately it is polluted and quite dirty. In spit of that, one might see people fishing in the river.

La Luz

This photo was made in an old building in Havana Vieja. I liked the old run down buildings, the bright light, and the windows and doors that streamed the light through. A series of these photos is on my web site, www.riowatauga-art.com

Babalao with Chicken

Ernesto, the Babalao at the ceremony, is sacrificing the chicken. There was an array of bowls, fruits, nuts, and bottles of rum set up. Some of these items then had chicken blood sprinkled over them. After this people danced, sang, and the drums beat louder and louder until one or two dancers fell into trances and dropped to the ground-I think from both emotional, spiritual, and physical exhaustion. It was hot, humid, and they had danced non-stop for more than an hour. When we went to the beach and Maria danced in the edge of the ocean she eventually collapsed and was simply floundering in the surf. My old life guard instincts kicked in and I bounded into the surf as if I was once again 19 and back at the beach in South Carolina. It was an easy rescue.

Sacrifice

Most of the Santeria ceremonies involve a sacrifice, typically a chicken. Here Maria, the person for whom the ceremony was being held, handles the sacrificed chicken. She suffers from Hepatitis C infection, had been losing weight and had visited a babalao who had recommended the sacrifice and ceremony as a means of asking a spirit for help in attaining better health.

This woman is dancing in time to the chanting of Antonio and the beat of several drums-a bongo and a conga drum that were brought for the ceremony. The rhythm is infectious. Two of the dancers became transfixed by the music and the dancing and went into trances. Maria, one of the two, fell in the surf. My old lifeguard instincts were still present I suppose for I crashed into the surf to the rescue. It was a fascinating experience.

Antonio y Ellagua

One afternoon Roberto and I were talking. He asked me if I wanted to go to a Santeria ceremony the next day. I asked if the students could go and he said "OK." WE commandeered a van the next morning and drove out toward Cojimar and turned off the road toward the beach. We ended up at a small beach with a Rapido and nothing else. The key thing at the beach was that a freshwater river entered the ocean there. The Babalao had told Roberto and Maria that this was the type of place they should find for the ceremony. Antonio, who has been pictured before, is shown here wearing his tee shirt I had given him a year or two before. It was for an exhibition and the photo on the shirt was made at the Tropicana. Antonio sang, chanted, drank rum and puffed his cigar for several hours non-stop during the ceremony. I don't know how much of this was real, how much for show, but it was a fascinating event.

Hanging Out

It is a hot Saturday afternoon. All these folks are out in their front yard which sits on Linea. They are joking, drinking rum, and having a good time. All of them live in apartments in the house behind them. The old homes in Vedado and some in Miramar have been divided up into apartments. Note how one apartment has been repainted and another has not. Almost all the old homes not taken over by businesses or rented to embassies and their officials have been sub-divided like this. Some are reasonably well maintained. Others are not. I guess that it is a lot like public housing in most parts of the world.

Three clerks

These guys who are enjoying their morning cigars were all working in a small shop. There was not much merchandise for sale and one person certainly could have done the job. There are a lot of situations like this throughout Cuba. There is definitely no thought given to efficiency. Labor is cheap, and an effort is made to have everybody "employed." A friend of mine once told me that when he was working in Havana as a press photographer there were two people in the elevator of his hotel at all times. One person asked "What floor?" Then, the other person pressed the button.

Private Food Stand

This food stand has better offerings than the state owned one. Here the producers sell their products and then they are taxed. Their products are better although far from outstanding. Most of the choice produce goes to the hotels and restaurants that cater to the tourist industry. Also some is exported, most of the pineapple, for instance, goes to Switzerland I have been told. At the house where we generally stay, the owner goes out in the morning and returns later with several bags of good vegetables and fruits. I don't know where he gets it, I don't ask, I just realize that the bolsa negra is alive and well.

State Owned Produce Stand

In this stand at the produce section of the market are the vendors for the state. The produce comes from state owned and run farms. Hardly anyone shops there. The produce is smaller, more discolored, and is not as fresh as that sold in other stands. As a consequence there are rarely customers shopping. The vendors all seem quite bored and resigned to their situation.

More Market

Upstairs at the market is the meat department. There are slabs of beef, pork, and various butchered cuts of meat sold here. Nothing is refrigerated. In the back of the meat market is the live section which has chickens, guineas, and other fowl for sale. This is a place where life and death, existence and non-existence, and to some extent the balance among living things comes to its cross roads. There are not many vegetarians in Cuba in my experience, but there is not much to please the palate of a serious meat eater. I find it fairly easy to eat a lot of vegetable-fruit meals, leaving the meat and seafood to others. Needless to say, there is not a pandemic of obesity-childhood or otherwise in Cuba.

Free Market

One of my favorite things to do while in Havana is to go the Free Market over in Cerro. It is at a big crossroads, full of food vendors and lots of activity. Around the outside are several shops that sell the relics and implements needed for various santeria rites. One sees people there with live chickens and it is assumed that they are headed for sacrifice. Inside the majority of people are happy and are having a good time. I think this girl has a great smile. Prices are ridiculously low until you realize that you as an Anglo are being charged in dollars and the Cubans are paying in pesos, this is a convenient conversion method, but it is hardly correct. I don't complain though, it is not a lot, the fruit is fresh and tasty, and the money helps the people to survive a few more days. One can spend an afternoon there without problem and if you like to make photos of people, then you can spend several days.

Sitting on La Rampa

Calle 23 is a busy street, it is main street in Vedado. It stretches up from the Malecon past the Habana Libre Hotel heading up in the general direction of the University. It has shops, markets, a couple of dance clubs and a great jazz club along the way. All of the airlines have their offices there and there are several travel agents. My friend Roberto goes by the cell phone office to buy some more time on his phone each time he has spare money. There is always a crowd of people. Many just hang out. Hanging out is a very popular pastime in Havana. In most cities I see people walking from one place to another. Those who are sitting on benches or just standing around are usually identifiable as tourists or retirees. It is different in Havana. Young men will stop you and ask you where you are from. A typical American might question this intrusion or fear they were being hustled. Sometimes you are, especially when the next question is "You want cigars?" At other times you discover the person is just interested, wants to make conversation, ask you something about the US, or tell you about their father who lives in Hialeah or Fort Lauderdale. You realize just how sheltered or out of touch many Cubans are when a bright seeming young man asks you " Where is the weather best, Miami or Detroit?"

America in Cuba

All about one sees the remnants of the American presence in Cuba. Most of the Cuban people express their strong fondness for Americans. In spite of the official differences between the governments at a street level the people can get along just fine. I think most people would like to see both countries live up to the ideals of the Fourth of July and its representation of freedom. More and more those freedoms are being lost and this trend must stop. Those who treasure freedom must stand up not only against intruders or terrorists, but against over reaching by insulated, out of touch governments. This premise is applicable to both the USA and Cuba.